BKK to Chiang Mai, December 6-7

"I fell into a burning ring of fire...

And it burns, burns, burns,

the ring of fire"

-Johnny Cash

Ah, the simple pleasure of a clean shirt. It's funny how the plainest things take on extra significance when you do without for a awhile. So, I finished my long slog from Trang in Southern Thailand to Chiang Mai in the north with a stopover in Bangkok for a rest and haircut.

The first class sleeper was a great choice -in addition to limiting my carbon output, I met a pleasant American who joined the legions of U.S. citizens I have met who was overjoyed at Obama's win and dismayed at California's refusal to accept gay marriage. Got a great sleep in my long bed and quiet compartment.

Arrived refreshed in Chiang Mai and enrolled immediately in a Thai cooking class where, with a lot help from the instructors, I whipped up a Tom Yam soup, chicken with cashew nuts, spring rolls, Som Tam (papaya salad), mango sticky rice and massaman curry. I left feeling full and wishing that I could get ingredients this fresh at home, given how easy and fast Thai cooking is.

Accompanied by two Vancouverites (Aaron and Faith), I visited the Sunday market which features some of the finest handicrafts I have seen yet, and loads of street food. Sat on tiny plastic stools and indulged in spring rolls, a delicious peanut salad, noodles, and some steamed cakes that I said tasted like soap ("cleans you out, literally!"). Eating like locals is one of my favourite things about Asia travel.

Then, like good Canadians abroad, we proceeded to drink a little too much without getting too obnoxious (unlike the Brits at the next table who drank to the point of vomiting at their table!). Loved the recommended Rooftop Bar (thanks to Katy and Jamie) where we met... more Canadians. So weird. But it's nice to meet so many happy people (Canadian and otherwise). Can't I just keep travelling forever?

This city is so cosmopolitan and pleasant. I feel relaxed, which is a rare feeling in a Thai town. I could stay awhile if I were not on a mission to get some time in Laos!

PS: the opening quote of this post is not a religious reference...

Lanta onward, December 5

"It's goodbye to all my friends
It's time to go again
Think of all the poetry
and the pickin' down the line"

-Townes Van Sant


Indeed, it's time to start moving again. And this travel slog is long. First overnight to Bangkok, then overnight from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, then if I'm still human onward into Laos. I'll need some rest stops in between. In diving terminology, a safety stop. To prevent getting bent.

The week on Lanta flew by -I can't believe I stayed 7 nights! The pleasing breeze and calm sea were hard to leave behind.


I'm most disappointed to hear the news that Stephen Evil Harper has latched his greasy hands onto power and refused to let go. He's a blight on the Canadian horizon. It was good to see the Globe and Mail advocate that he step down, though. Post-script: I see that people are rallying in a big way to seek Harper's departure! Exciting times for our country.

OK, I get on a train now. See you later, khap. Thor

PS: King's Birthday today. 81 years.

Lanta, December 4

"I want to be
under the sea
in an octopus's garden
in the shade..."

I am now a PADI certified open water diver! I finished the course today and am so pleased. The last two dives were my best, with the skills going well, and sightings of fabulous corals and fish (including a banded sea snake, a school of Lionfish, Trigger fish, tonnes of Moorish Idols and even a few mammals known as Swedish Hotties). The boat ride back was a dreamy pleasant affair of basking in the sun and the glow of acomplishment. A great day.

Last night, I said goodbye to my fellow travellers some of whom are squeezing in a little more island time in Krabi Province before the treks home. It was sad to see them go -we've been together for nearly 3 weeks and I havce become quite fond of them. Now it's just me and David, who leaves shortly to start a Similan dive trip (he really took to the sport, and it's easy to see why).

Koh Lanta, December 1-3

Why oh why did I mention in my byline that I love every minute a trip that includes food poisoning?! I definitely do not. Spent a night praying at the porcelain alter (and getting rather well acquainted with the toilet's insignia, I might add), and a day resting, but then I was back into the pool to finish my confined dives and ace my final PADI exam. Yay.

Today did a fabulous dive in the ocean and am hooked. I love this sport.

On the news front, it appears that Thailand has had better luck in getting rid of their tyrannical and useless government than Canada. Sigh. Perhaps Stephen Harper will do the right thing and step down. Ha!

The room is rocking like a boat, so perhaps a beachside Caiparinha will help...

Koh Mook - Koh Lanta, November 26 to 30

"I got my hands in the river,

my feet back up on the bank,

I looked up at the Lord above and said:

'Hey man, thanks'"

-Tragically Hip

I owe a debt of gratitude to Gordon Downey for making music that one can rock out to over the roar of a boat engine (props to the Lord above, too). After a few days, the peaceful yet active lifestyle on Lipe grew repetitive, so Neils, Annette and I boated to Koh Mook, where it was immediately obvious we had made a mistake. It was overly quiet, difficult to change money (nay, impossible), and overly quiet! It was, however beautiful, even in rain. Like good travellers, we made the most of it, exploring the island in a few short hours and having a nice dinner at my posh hotel (the first place I have stayed where I was comfortable using their sheets!).

We left first thing for Koh Lanta, which is more my speed. Registered for a dive course and settled into an unusual hotel arrangement -we're basically staying in the worst huts at a nice beach side resort. As a result, I get my own hot with bathroom for $15, but have access to 3 pools, a sumptuous dining area, and associated services that come with a real vacation resort! Annette found rats in her room last night though, so it's not ideal!

The American girls arrived two days later and were a most welcome site. Our party of five is

back together again. The recent events in Bangkok are causing a little worry about flights for some of us, though I'm least likely to be affected. I understand that at home an incompetent government may be about to lose power too! Perhaps things for Canada will work out for the best this year.

Langkawi-Koh Lipe, November 21-25

Ok, I'm giving in and blogging -I'm starting to lose track of things! The past few days have been at beach places, so they're more about the chill-out factor and the people.

Langkawi is a duty-free spot in Malaysia resulting in cheaper and more varied liquor, but still a lot of Muslim-run places that are dry! Go figure. Had some nice times hanging out on the beach with other (mostly solo) backpackers, all of whom with remarkable tenacity and strength of character that inspires. I have learned a few good life/travel lessons from them:

-always look for street food stands that locals prefer: the food is tastiest and the company most interesting, even if the atmosphere is minimal

-travel requires guts; if you have them, you're guaranteed an experience of a lifetime. Or you can stay home where there's always TV...

-solo travel doesn't need to be the result of having no other options. Solo travel can be a preferred choice (sorry, Mom and Dad, I know you won't like this lesson!). Solo travel means you meet more people and have more new experiences.

Had a lovely dinner at an off-beach place on Lipe last night with my crew: 2 Netherlanders, 2 Americans and a German. Chicken larb -the best so far on this trip, but not as good as Ryan and Shelley's. Just as we were paying, a tropical rainstorm started meaning that we were forced to huddle in the restaurant another 1.5 hours. Anke said she liked that we had no control over the weather and must submit to its directive. Shortly a group of Thai musicians wandered in, struck up a conversation and began playing music for us. I wondered if they were going to pass a hat around, but instead they offered to share their food and cigarettes with us. The highlight may have been when they invited Katy to sing Black Magic Woman. I loved how much fun they all had making music. I was reminded of Jim Kunstler's advice about the post-oil world: he advised that people learn to make their own music. I think (and fear) he's right.

Watch this space later as I'll upload some pics in a few days.

George Town - Langkawi, November 20- 21

"And he's goin' back to a simpler place and time,

And I'll be with him on that midnight train to Georgia"

OK, I must start with an apology. If you heard a wretched screeching sound last night, that was me, singing karaoke. Sorry everyone. Sorry Gladys Knight and the Pips.

But first some history. George Town was a but of a bust as far as a place to visit, but it did obviously have a lively party scene. It was, in short, a town to celebrate American Thanksgiving with Katy, Jamie and newly-found co-travellers Neills and Max. We started at the musical night market (a Malaysian food court with real singers!). I gorged on Nyonya crab, chicken satays and spring rolls and managed to keep my clothes clean in the process. Then, after a few drinks at a cosy bar (over which, in the US tradition, we spoke about what we are thankful for), we rented a karaoke room, ordered some fruit, and a bucket of beer (only in Asia). Singing commenced. Details omitted to protect the guilty.

This morning I caught the bus and boat to Langkawi, Malaysia's duty-free island paradise. Due to a shortage of accommodation on the weekend, I am rooming with 3 new friends -2 girls and a guy (Cecilia shown here). How do these things happen?! The upside -my housing cost tonight is $5.00 Canadian.