Koh Mook - Koh Lanta, November 26 to 30

"I got my hands in the river,

my feet back up on the bank,

I looked up at the Lord above and said:

'Hey man, thanks'"

-Tragically Hip

I owe a debt of gratitude to Gordon Downey for making music that one can rock out to over the roar of a boat engine (props to the Lord above, too). After a few days, the peaceful yet active lifestyle on Lipe grew repetitive, so Neils, Annette and I boated to Koh Mook, where it was immediately obvious we had made a mistake. It was overly quiet, difficult to change money (nay, impossible), and overly quiet! It was, however beautiful, even in rain. Like good travellers, we made the most of it, exploring the island in a few short hours and having a nice dinner at my posh hotel (the first place I have stayed where I was comfortable using their sheets!).

We left first thing for Koh Lanta, which is more my speed. Registered for a dive course and settled into an unusual hotel arrangement -we're basically staying in the worst huts at a nice beach side resort. As a result, I get my own hot with bathroom for $15, but have access to 3 pools, a sumptuous dining area, and associated services that come with a real vacation resort! Annette found rats in her room last night though, so it's not ideal!

The American girls arrived two days later and were a most welcome site. Our party of five is

back together again. The recent events in Bangkok are causing a little worry about flights for some of us, though I'm least likely to be affected. I understand that at home an incompetent government may be about to lose power too! Perhaps things for Canada will work out for the best this year.

Langkawi-Koh Lipe, November 21-25

Ok, I'm giving in and blogging -I'm starting to lose track of things! The past few days have been at beach places, so they're more about the chill-out factor and the people.

Langkawi is a duty-free spot in Malaysia resulting in cheaper and more varied liquor, but still a lot of Muslim-run places that are dry! Go figure. Had some nice times hanging out on the beach with other (mostly solo) backpackers, all of whom with remarkable tenacity and strength of character that inspires. I have learned a few good life/travel lessons from them:

-always look for street food stands that locals prefer: the food is tastiest and the company most interesting, even if the atmosphere is minimal

-travel requires guts; if you have them, you're guaranteed an experience of a lifetime. Or you can stay home where there's always TV...

-solo travel doesn't need to be the result of having no other options. Solo travel can be a preferred choice (sorry, Mom and Dad, I know you won't like this lesson!). Solo travel means you meet more people and have more new experiences.

Had a lovely dinner at an off-beach place on Lipe last night with my crew: 2 Netherlanders, 2 Americans and a German. Chicken larb -the best so far on this trip, but not as good as Ryan and Shelley's. Just as we were paying, a tropical rainstorm started meaning that we were forced to huddle in the restaurant another 1.5 hours. Anke said she liked that we had no control over the weather and must submit to its directive. Shortly a group of Thai musicians wandered in, struck up a conversation and began playing music for us. I wondered if they were going to pass a hat around, but instead they offered to share their food and cigarettes with us. The highlight may have been when they invited Katy to sing Black Magic Woman. I loved how much fun they all had making music. I was reminded of Jim Kunstler's advice about the post-oil world: he advised that people learn to make their own music. I think (and fear) he's right.

Watch this space later as I'll upload some pics in a few days.

George Town - Langkawi, November 20- 21

"And he's goin' back to a simpler place and time,

And I'll be with him on that midnight train to Georgia"

OK, I must start with an apology. If you heard a wretched screeching sound last night, that was me, singing karaoke. Sorry everyone. Sorry Gladys Knight and the Pips.

But first some history. George Town was a but of a bust as far as a place to visit, but it did obviously have a lively party scene. It was, in short, a town to celebrate American Thanksgiving with Katy, Jamie and newly-found co-travellers Neills and Max. We started at the musical night market (a Malaysian food court with real singers!). I gorged on Nyonya crab, chicken satays and spring rolls and managed to keep my clothes clean in the process. Then, after a few drinks at a cosy bar (over which, in the US tradition, we spoke about what we are thankful for), we rented a karaoke room, ordered some fruit, and a bucket of beer (only in Asia). Singing commenced. Details omitted to protect the guilty.

This morning I caught the bus and boat to Langkawi, Malaysia's duty-free island paradise. Due to a shortage of accommodation on the weekend, I am rooming with 3 new friends -2 girls and a guy (Cecilia shown here). How do these things happen?! The upside -my housing cost tonight is $5.00 Canadian.

Melacca-Cameron Highlands, November 18-19

"I've heard that into every life, a little of it must fall,

but you'll never catch me complaining about too much of that southern rain."

-Cowboy Junkies

Rain is the word of the day, as I got my first taste on the bus up to Cameron Highlands two days ago. The rain was so heavy by the time we caught the local bus up the hill that we had to shut the windows, and it dripped down my back during dinner at an Indian place set in a parking lot, where we huddled under the fluorescent-lit umbrella and waited as the cook produced dahl, curried chickpeas, another tofu curry and chapati. Ginger tea. Mmmm. It was by far the most authentic experience, and we enjoyed the company of a Malay family from Sabah, also on vacation. What the place lacked in aesthetics it made up in flavour. A true trip-defining moment.

Yesterday, I awoke early, roused the girls, and suggested a move from the guest house (the term used loosely to describe a the barrack-like quanza huts we had rented). We got onto a tour to visit the Raffelsia flower (allegedly the largest flower in the world, which is actually a mushroom that blooms to attract flies for pollination). Thankfully, the Raffelesia was located a 1.5 hour hike into the jungle, and I know this sounds strange, but I enjoyed being heavily rained upon during the hike back down. The tour also included a visit to the BOH tea plantation (where we had an excellent cup of tangerine earl grey tea in their switch new facility), and a strawberry farm.

As Katy was feeling unwell, Jamie and I went out for drinks and a steam boat, which is basically a fondue of Tom Yam soup broth into which you dunk (and cook) an impossible amount of food (shrimp, lamb, chicken, fish, fish balls, veggies, eggs, and noodles). Cost: $5.00 a person.

Rain lasted all through the night until I caught the bus down to George Town this morning.

Singapore-Melacca, November 16-17

The Singapore National Library (left) is touted as the greenest building in the world, so I had to visit. Perhaps it is, but Asia, -even Singapore- can be prone to undeserved superlatives. I wondered if the granite floors were shipped from Europe. But it does have an irregular floorplate to allow in lots of natural light, motion-sensing escalators and darkness-sensing lights. The south facade is nearly windowless to avoid excessive solar gain, and numerous solar shares on the other facades for the same reason. Nice looking building, for the most part.

Met some more of the drifters who populate hostels in Asia. Mike must have been in his 70's and had visited nearly 200 different hostels around the world. Perhaps that will be me one day. We dined at a local food court and I had S'pore's famed chili crab and too much beer.

The next day I dropped by the Arab Quarter and before long was ready for lunch of lamb biryani and a chat with a German girl living in Vancouver and who had come to Singapore to set up a biotech office. Then I caught the train north to Melacca. A Malaysian woman and her two kids sat next to me. She struck up a conversation and shortly thereafter mentioned she would like my address so she could come visit me in Vancouver!

Got into my friendly guesthouse late and had an unmentionably delicious laksa (unmentionable because it rivalled Beverly's!) and a shaved ice with pineapple and lychee. Slept well under the restorative breeze of my fan. The shower I had this morning took off several layers of sweat, and I felt lighter in colour and weight.

Walked around this old colonial town taking in its interesting, if limited, architecture (see below). My two new American friends, Jamie and Katie, joined me.

Singapore, November 14-15

Air Asia's, slightly-disconcerting slogan is: Now everyone can fly! (What about the guy trying to light his shoes on fire?). On the flight down from Bangkok, I read in the inflight magazine that Air Asia is now proud to offer only Airbus service. The safety card noted we were in a Boeing aircraft.

I spoke too soon about Singapore. It's just as lovely as I remembered: highly articulated streetscapes, a beautiful public realm (Chisaki, this pic at right is for you!), and, in a visit to the art gallery (free of course), nudes! Speaking of art, the transit stations are decorated in a minimal way but with sumptuously done art pieces. My old urban design prof used to call this: touching lightly, but affecting profoundly. I wanted to move into the airport transit station.

After a gorgeously-refreshing shower, I immediately commenced with eating. At the Banana Leaf Apollo, I had a full vegetarian Thali (shown at right) with flavours either subtle and slightly hot, or highly flavourful yet not piquant. I ate until my stomach began to protest. A mango lassie stupidly mango-ish. Then a visit to the Battle Box, from where British Forces bravely defended the island nation for 15 days in February, 1942, before deciding, on account of the civilian implications, to surrender to the Japanese. The guide mentioned gleefully that the Japanese generals were executed after the war, ending the problem, "once and for all"!

Dinner was prawns in a coconut sauce and Calcutta-style cauliflower in spices and lime. Garlic naan that I knew was arriving 5 mins in advance. Too full for dessert, which was a shame. I was surrounded by skinny locals eating way more than I.

Bangkok, November 13-14

Travel days are time sinks. But despite the hurry-up-and-wait, they can yield some interesting experiences. On the trek from Kowloon to Bangkok's Sukhumvit Road, I met a Thai national flight attendant with Cathay, and also one of the global flotsam and jetsam that wash about Thailand (this one had been travelling for 6 years, yet he seemed petrified at the notion of using the SkyTrain system). He anxiously asked me how one knows when Bangkok's air is polluted. I said: every time you breathe in.

Back in Bangkok and happy to see familiar sights: the crowded, fluorescent-lit streets, the Art Deco Atlanta Hotel, and... Ben Johnson from work! I had not expected to see him, but it was a welcome sight. We caught up over breakfast in "Ah!", the Atlanta's cute restaurant, and walked to Erawan shrine. The Shrine is open air and surrounded by the perfumes smoke of incense.


Wandered through Lumpini Park for its cool breeze and its lake. It made Bangkok outdoors seem bearable for a moment. Had my old jetlag-recovery standby of fried chicken and papaya salad at MBK Shopping Centre.

The highlight of the day though was dinner with Ben at "Cabbages and Condoms", a social enterprise that uses the profits from it's restaurant to provide sex education in Thailand. Meal consisted of Masuman chicken curry, shrimp deepfried with garlic, and a coconut tapioca dessert that was sweet, crunchy and creamy (name forgotten). Instead of an after dinner mint, we each received a condom.

Ben shown here, contemplative, at Erawan Shrine!

Hong Kong, November 10-12

Ah, Hong Kong you're a heartbreaker, and yes you have officially become my favourite city (sorry, New York, no offense intended!). I knew almost as soon as I landed that I would love Hong Kong. The expensive, but relentlessly efficient, Airport Express whisked me into Kowloon where I easily located the free shuttle bus, and a display saying it would leave in 9 mins. It did.

My shoebox hotel was exactly as anticipated. Though some online reviewers had complained about the shoeboxiness of the place (what do you expect in Hong Kong for $35 a night?) and surly staff, I found it exactly to my liking and the staff most helpful. The curtains were of the chicest available garbage bag material, effectively shutting out the light, if not the street noise. Slept deeply.

Hong Kong beckoned. No, too folksy. Hong Kong lured. Too suggestive. Well, I went for a walk and took care of some unfinished business. One such matter included the early-in-the-trip rip-off. This time it involved purchasing a camera. It appears upon later research that I overpaid. But at least I got a good exchange rate on the currency conversion (don't let it be said that I am a 100% sucker). One must find the silver lining in these things. If only I had bought the damn thing in Bangkok, I would have paid $200 less (and that was the opening price). Thai people are so honest.

So, took the Star Ferry, climbed the mid-level escalators (longest in the world), checked out Soho, and generally fell in love with that city's scale, detail, variety and ambiance. Urban design is fine-grained, yet still gritty. Climbed the Peak with some help from the tram (and my loaned Octopus card -thanks Bonnie. Basically, it's a swipe credit card for transportation, everywhere. Period. How easy it that?) and immediately found what every good Asian wants to see when s/he arrives at the top of a world-famous mountain with stunning views: a shopping mall. But they also had a very pleasant 3 km walk around the hill with commanding views.

But the best view, hands down, was my dinner at Aqua, one of Hong Kong's hippest restaurants. Imagine this tourist brochure photos of Hong Kong at night enhanced with Photoshop. Colour drips from the buildings, the buildings' exterior lights change to highlight their skyward reach, and then the laser light show begins. My date for the evening, Cecelia, pointed out the major buildings. We had a 65 degree egg cracked over the most flavourful tuna sashimi I've yet tasted, and soft shelled crab. Cecellia took me to a Lang Kwai Fong bar spot with another great view and superb ambiance. For some reason, gin and tonics taste better in Hong Kong and I'm not sure why. Perhaps $16 a pop makes you appreciate it more...

The next day I visited the anqtiue district, which consisted mostly of that form of Asian antiquity that I detest, but also some interesting, simple peices. Met a guy drawing nudes (from memory) on the sidewalk. I thought: this is why Hong Kong is better than Singapore.

Had a beautiful, delicious lunch of veggie dumplings (first cold ones, then hot ones in a ginger-vinegar dipping sauce). Tsing Dao on tap. I wondered if urban planners make good money in Hong Kong.